SASSYBELLA.com - Henna Goes Global (part 2)

ISSUES: Henna Goes Global (part 2)

Marziya Mohammedali - May 20 2006

Unfortunately, due to the demand for henna art, as well as attempts to make it look more like inked tattoos, there has been an increase in the use of ‘black henna'. Unlike natural henna, black henna does have serious side effects.

"There is no such thing as real black henna, and there's a real warning it shouldn't be used," says Irani. She recalls an incident when a bride she visited in India had applied the product to her skin, and ended up with a very painful allergy.

The adverse reaction to black henna can be traced to the composition of the product. Black henna is usually produced by adding black dyes to the henna paste in order to make the stain darker. Instead of brown, the stain is actually black, hence the name ‘black henna'.

The dyes contain a substance known as para-phenylenediamine (PPD) that should not be applied directly to the skin. Cosmetics containing PPD have been banned for years, and most hair dyes containing the chemical have strict guidelines for use.

This is primarily because PPD is a sensitising element. It can easily cause an allergic reaction, and once a person becomes sensitive to it, they react adversely to chemicals and particularly to PPD itself.

Symptoms of PPD allergy include rashes on the site of contact, skin burns and infections. Serious cases may have the person breaking out in hives and developing heart and respiratory problems.

Amy Rylance, a student at Edith Cowan University in Perth, was extremely lucky that she did not develop an extreme reaction to a henna tattoo she got while on holiday in Bali in early 2005.

"I'd had them before and had no problem with (henna tattoos). I'd heard of people who had them done, and it swelled up, or it went red and sore and things, but I didn't think it would be that bad," she says.

Even though Rylance had never had a reaction to black henna before, the concentration of dye in the henna that was applied in Bali must have been strong enough to trigger a reaction. In less than an hour, the tattoo began to burn, and even though she tried to wash it off she still suffered blistering.

More than a year later, she still bears the scar from the burn as a blackened patch of skin near her shoulder.

While she was aware of what could happen with black henna, it was never a threat she had taken seriously. The artist who applied the design had been allowed to operate on the premises of the hotel she was staying in, so she thought that it would be safe.

Looking back, she says that while she had initially thought the idea of henna tattooing was cool, particularly with black henna, she does not now. "It's still black, though, I think it's not kind of cool now. I hope it'll fade, eventually. I wouldn't want it there forever."

Considering the dangers that are associated with black henna, it would be a lot safer to use the natural brown henna instead.

Be wise while being fashionable, and go the natural way!

Henna and Culture:
While the current trend in henna application draws mainly from the traditions of the Indo-Pak subcontinent, henna plays a significant role in many cultures. Each culture have their own uses and methods of applying henna that are unique to them.

The Arabs tend to have large, floral designs. They primarily decorate the hands and feet, with most emphasis on the palms. It is considered to be holy or magical, and often the designs chosen include patterns thought to safeguard against calamity. Brides are often treated to a special ceremony where henna is applied on the arms and legs, and the bride-to-be has to sit completely still until the paste dries in order to allow for the strongest stain possible to develop.

The people of the Indo-Pak subcontinent prefer more delicate, almost filigree designs, primarily applied at weddings and religious festivals. A bride may have her hands, forearms, feet and shins decorated with henna before her wedding. While henna art is more common amongst the women of the culture, in some parts of Bangladesh and Kashmir men apply henna as well. The bridegrooms may have their hands and feet decorated with special designs that are just as intricate as those of their brides, but contain special motifs.

The people of North and Eastern Africa use henna as a cosmetic. The women put it on their fingernails and their patterns are characterised by long, sweeping strokes and large geometric designs. Women wear henna as a part of their daily lives, staining the ends of their fingers and drawing a simple circle in the centre of the palm. When it comes to religious festivals, they use a combination of black and brown henna to create a shaded design. Henna is mainly applied to the hands, although in some cases patterns on the forearms are also done.

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