This was a show of two firsts; that being Hedi Silmane’s debut with the freshened Saint Laurent Paris, and the fact that this was indeed the first ready-to-wear show for the the house since the name change from the original Yves Saint Laurent. If Silmane set out to make a statement, he certainly did.
The intimate show was held at the Grande Palais salon, where the walls and ceiling were covered in dramatic black tenting. Kate Moss, Marc Jacobs and Jessica Chastain were among the A-listers who turned out to see the show, and there was a certain edgy-rock vibe that we’re not entirely used to seeing from the house of Saint Laurent Paris.
It was certainly fitting that this collection was revealed in Paris, where black is practically uniform for those who graduate from the school of chic. After all, this collection was black, black, black. While bright hues have dominated the majority of shows throughout fashion month, Silmane, like Marc Jacobs, went for the opposite and crossed to the dark side. Jackets, tailored pants, shirts, and dresses were shown in wool, leather, cottons and silks- it seems Silmane left no stone unturned. There is no doubt that there was a smart and sassy aesthetic to the looks, and overall there was just the right amount of maturity and sassiness to keep the collection interesting.
One particular favourite look of ours was a lace maxi dress (black, of course) with a sharp slit that ran right up to the thigh. Paired with a silk, ankle-length cape that was complete with an oversized pussy bow. There was something about this ensemble that was both mysterious and strong, and also had a touch of the super hero.
And the accessory du jour? Oversize, wide-brimmed fedora hats that all but obscured our vision of the models’ faces. We can assume that this was indeed Silmane’s intention, as it meant we had to devote all of our attention to the clothes themselves. While such a powerfully robust look may not be for everyone, we certainly appreciate the debut showing from Saint Laurent Paris, despite the collection feeling at times a bit stiff for spring and summer.