Kate Gilbert reports live from London Fashion Week spring summer 2008
The eccentric Gareth Pugh showed the power of the dark side today with his most accessible collection to date. Pugh’s usual gothic focus combined with sci-fi shapes and volume was certainly there in force; except this season it comes with fringing. The show began with usual theatrics; a large balloon exploded over the entrance to the catwalk and a model emerged wearing a large black cube over her head (a risky move as Pugh’s masks last season caused a model to misguidedly walk off the edge of the catwalk). A series of fringed dresses, medieval cone hats and an interesting mink stole made entirely of small white mice graced the catwalk.
Whilst Pugh’s fetish-wear pieces were actually more wearable and the theatrics were played down, they still retained his vision and out-there creativity. Of course, this raises the obvious questions about the commercial viability of his creations. However, wouldnâ€™t fashion be dull if it all ended up on a red-carpet somewhere; itâ€™s great to see a bit of art and drama still creeping in to the ready-to-wear collections.
Todd Lynn yet again pulled in the crowds with his fine tailoring and fantastic twists on classic suits, jackets and trousers. Inspired by rock bands of his youth, Todd Lynn created modern, square tailed morning jackets, with zip detailing and also squared off leather biker jackets. Cross-pleated trousers and large cummerbunds were teamed with fitted blazers and loosely crocheted jumpers. All outfits were complimented by Laboutin snakeskin shoes. Todd Lynn creates beautifully sophisticated, well tailored pieces that will be a must-have for any sleek dresser.
Louise Goldin on the other-hand is making a one woman attempt to change the face of knitwear. In her first solo show at LFW (having shown twice as part of Fashion East), Goldin took inspiration from her time in Brazil to create a light weight summer knitwear collection. Pieces combined a wide scope of block colour and shapes; kick bottom dresses, hooded sports tops, swimming costumes layer over striped sleeved tops and front pocketed dresses were all presented in every colour of the rainbow, and of course, were all knitted by various techniques. Stripes, cross over straps, exposed cut out shapes and a body-con feel created an exciting collection that promises a successful solo career for this young Central Saint Martins graduate.